Carbon Cost of Christmas Series: Part Two

By Michael Hines

Having a Christmas tree crowded with gifts has been a British tradition since Queen Victoria. Children set their hopes on Father Christmas, and adults visit high street shops with family, friends, and even coworkers in mind. The Black Friday and “Cyber Monday” sales epitomise this shopping frenzy. But many wonder, is there a significant Carbon Cost of fashion and gift giving?

Many of you question the potential downsides of from gifting.  While you want to surprise and delight your loved ones with gifts, you also recognise that too much consumerism today is done thoughtlessly and generates greenhouse gas emissions that are causing global climate change. This post is for you if you want gifting approaches that maintain the spirit of Christmas but reduce harm to the planet.

In Part One of our series, we talked generally about the Carbon Cost of Christmas. In the UK, just under 50% of Christmas gifts are clothes, so let’s explore the Carbon Cost of Fashion and consider alternatives to help you celebrate sustainably.

Fashion’s Role in Emissions and Climate Change

Clothing and textiles contribute roughly 8% of all global greenhouse gas emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping worldwide. Between 2000 and 2015, global clothing production doubled while the number of times a garment was worn before being discarded decreased 36%. 

Moving Past the Fast Fashion Mindset 

A parliament report found that the fast fashion business model drives overconsumption in the UK by making clothes so inexpensive that they become seen as disposable. It found that UK residents buy more clothing than those in any other European country. On the other hand, if the number of times a garment is worn was doubled on average, emissions from fashion would be 44% lower. Enjoying the same garment for longer also saves money. Consumers waste up to USD 460 billion each year by throwing away clothes that they could continue to wear, the same report finds.

We aren’t asking you to boycott fast fashion brands, but to buy with intention and intelligence wherever you shop.  That means considering the Carbon Cost of what you buy as you would the cost of your time and money.  To limit your Carbon Cost, first, remember only to buy what you or your loved ones really need. Then, consider solutions next from the Circular Economy (see later section below).  

If you must buy new, consider what WRAP calls the physical durability and the emotional durability of a garment. Physical durability represents how long the garment holds up over time.  Emotional durability represents how long it suits the owner, both in terms of fit and style, and whether they will wear it regularly versus only once or twice.

Well-Made Garments Last Longer

Ask yourself if a particular garment is well-made:  

  • Does the brand stand behind its products with a warranty or repair services?  
  • Can you get several years of use from the item, or will it likely fall apart after a few years?  
  • Is the item pre-distressed (like faded denim) and therefore unlikely to hold up over time?

Well-Cared-for Items Last Longer

Following the care instructions on garment labels helps them last longer.  Using cooler temperatures in the wash cycle and air or tumble drying on low can help the fabric hold up and retain its color longer.  Reducing the frequency of wash and dry cycles also cuts energy use substantially. 

“Classic” Garments Stay in Style

Whether shopping from a heritage brand or a fast-fashion retailer, look for items that have classic silhouettes and timeless colors or patterns. In the UK, 26% of clothes are discarded simply because the wearer doesn’t like them anymore. Is something you want to buy timeless, or does it represent a passing moment in fashion? 

Look for Size Flexibility in Your Garments

Consumers in the UK discard 42% of their clothes simply because they don’t fit anymore. When possible, choose garments that contain some spandex or elastane because these materials can adjust to fluctuations in your weight or shape.  For kids, think at least one size up so that there is added time to grow into items.  Buy clothing with adjustable fasteners, movable buttons, or clothing with generous seams that can be taken out or in by a tailor. If you feel brave, have a go at our upsizing tutorial to make a new classic from old favourites you’ve outgrown! 

Choosing Low Carbon Cost Materials

When buying new items, most of the Carbon Cost typically comes from producing the raw materials used to make that item, such as metals, plastics, glass, or wood.  When considering the Carbon Cost of fashion, a Quantis study finds more than 90% of the Carbon Cost comes just from making the fabric before it has even been cut or sewn, packaged, or shipped. 

In an ideal world, the garments we buy would include a measure of Carbon Cost on the label – and that day may come.  But for now, choosing fabric materials with a low carbon footprint is your safest bet. 

Choosing sustainable materials can be confusing due to unregulated marketing labels like “sustainable” and “all-natural.”  Beguilingly, a cotton shirt could be “all-natural” but can have a greater Carbon Cost than a synthetic fabric made from recycled polyester.

Let us offer a primer on choosing smarter materials to reduce your Carbon Cost.

Recycled Materials Beat New Ones

Recycled materials are best for making climate-friendly clothes because they avoid producing new raw materials. A shirt made from recycled polyester (rPET) consumes 59% less energy to create compared to regular “virgin” polyester fabric.”

Undyed Materials Beat Industrial Dyeing

When making a garment, roughly 36% of the Carbon Cost comes from dyeing and finishing the fabric.  More and more clothes are being offered in undyed and unbleached formats.  Consider buying these items and using your own natural dye kits.

Organic Cotton Beats Ordinary Cotton

Organic cotton produces 46% less CO2e emissions compared to conventional cotton.  Look for certification by either the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or the Organic Cotton Standard (OCS) with these logos:

TENCEL Lyocell as the Best Rayon Option

Rayon, a semi-synthetic fabric made from plants, is increasingly used in fashion (product labels include: lyocell, modal, viscose, and “100% bamboo viscose”).  In this category, the most sustainable fabric with the least Carbon Cost is branded as TENCEL Lyocell, because the plants used to make it are sustainably harvested and replanted in a “closed loop system.”

Organic Hemp and Organic Linen Are the Best Natural Fabrics

Both organic hemp and organic linen (flax) are the most sustainable natural fibers for textiles. They use less land, water, and chemical intervention than other materials. In addition, hemp naturally sequesters carbon and fixes nutrients in the soil. 

Wool and Animal Products

Animal-derived clothing like wool and leather are among the worst for Carbon Cost. The animals they come from release copious quantities of methane into the atmosphere. If you must choose these materials, it is best to seek those made from recycled materials.  Roughly, wool has about twice the Carbon Cost of ordinary cotton.

Shop Circular to Reduce the Carbon Cost of Fashion

One way to avoid buying new is to embrace the Circular Economy, where you avoid buying something new by repairing old items, renting them as needed, or purchasing gently used ones.  The concept is growing in popularity, with efforts afoot to downplay “Black Friday” and consider more “Circular Monday.”

Up until now we’ve discussed more environmentally-friendly shopping options, but make no mistake: the best textiles and gifts for the planet are the ones already in circulation (ones that you acquire second-hand)!

Right now, “circular” fashion represents just 3.5% of the global market, but the UN Environmental Programme argues we should target at least 23% of fashion purchases from the circular economy by 2030 to meet the Paris Agreement guidelines. How can you obtain roughly one-quarter of your fashion from the circular economy?

Reusing: Embracing Charity Shops, Vintage Boutiques, and Second-Hand Marketplaces

Buying previously worn clothing items has become normalised among 48% of Gen Z and Millennials and 35% of Gen X who shop in thrift stores, vintage stores, and used marketplaces like eBay and Facebook Marketplace.  This practice is great for the environment since it extends the life of clothing items and reduces demand to create new materials.

Not to be outdone by charity shops and vintage stores, major clothing brands and retailers are getting on board with the circular economy.  For instance, Selfridges created Reselfridges, the department store’s section for pre-owned goods and refillable products. Denim brand Levi’s has created a website subdomain, secondhand.levi.com, for buying preowned jeans and has put repair and tailor shops in some stores so that customers can keep items longer.  

Additionally,  marketplace apps like Vinted and Depop allow you to buy and sell pre-loved goods at great prices. They put you in direct contact with the sellers to ask questions, make offers, and even work out QR codes for shipping labels for sales. Many items listed on these apps are new or almost new, making them a (and convenient) way to shop second-hand without the time commitment of in-person shopping.

Cherwell Collective has put together a map of secondhand shops in our area of the UK!

Repair and Resize

You don’t need the services of a major retailer like Levi’s to repair your clothing. Establish a relationship with a local tailor or visit a repair cafe (they’re often free!).  Not only can they fix many damaged garments, but they can also resize many so that you can utilise them for longer. If you’re local to Oxfordshire, come along to our regular repair cafés at Cherwell Collective and WISH; they’ll always be listed on our public calendar.

Rent

For many years, it has been popular to rent certain clothing items, often for formal occasions, balls, and galas where the outfit will only be worn once.  Expanding on that concept, a growing array of businesses in the UK provide clothing rentals for a broader selection of occasions for anyone looking to temporarily spice up their wardrobe.  

Gifting Services, Experiences, and Other Alternatives to “More Stuff”

While people do love unwrapping a big, beautifully decorated box under a tree, many are already swimming in too much “stuff,” and might prefer being given the gift of fun and unique experiences or a service that provides them a respite from their busy lives. Many services and experiences have a low Carbon Cost compared to making physical things because they don’t use up new raw materials.

Consider offering your loved ones any of the following as an alternative to more stuff:

  • A gift card or certificate to eat at a favourite restaurant.
  • A gift certificate for a salon, spa, barber or hairdresser.
  • Membership to a gym or recreation center.
  • A subscription to a digital streaming service for music or video content.
  • Tickets to a local concert, theatrical performance, or sporting event.
  • An annual pass to their favorite museum

Also, keep in mind that you can offer gifts that help others participate in the circular economy, such as:

  • A membership or gift allotment in a clothing rental service
  • Gift certificate to a tailor or other repair service
  • Buy someone a vintage item – not just clothing but also furniture, toys, and decorations
  • Gifting a family heirloom to a younger generation

No matter how you choose to address the Carbon Cost of fashion and gift giving, we wish you a Happy Christmas!